The Perfect Men's Suit

They say that a suit can improve the appearance of any man. Well the opposite is true if it is an ill-fitting suit. An ill-fitting suit sticks out like a sore thumb. It can adversely affect your confidence, and will definitely affect the way people see you, and – subconsciously – even the way they treat you. Subliminally people perceive a sloppy dresser who is scruffy to be slow-witted, un-ambitious, and a slacker. Harsh but true. The converse is also true where people associate someone who dresses impeccably and is immaculately groomed to be an intelligent, self-driven go-getter.

So getting a great fitting suit is vital and can even be considered an investment in your career and corporate life that will provide an excellent return. A tailored suit definitely stands out from the crowd, and will help present a professional and sharp image in interviews, to clients, peers, the opposite sex, colleagues, and your superiors at work. Hence the saying “Dress for Success”, which applies to your career, as well as success in social and networking situations.

I have made a list of check points to help ensure that you purchase a good quality fitted suit that is sure to impress:

The Fabric

Worsted Pure Cashmere Wools are the best choice for a quality suit due to the way they fall and the way they feel. See the blog on Suit Materials for more details.

Perfect Trousers

You should be able to stick two fingers into the waist while wearing the trouser. This gives enough leeway for any increase in weight, or increase after a good meal, and it will be comfortable even when you are not concentrating on sucking in your gut! It is therefore essential that when your measurements are being taken that you let it all hang out, because then the measurements will be taken when you are in your most relaxed state – which is how you will be normally.

With pleats, they are more suited to larger men as they add flexibility and stretch. Someone with a larger stomach should generally stay away from flat front as it accentuates the curve of the stomach and is not as flexible when sitting down. Conversely a man with a smaller tummy should go for flat front, as it makes for a sharper look.

To avoid looking extremely sloppy, the trouser should not have too much excess material flapping around in the wind. It should be tapered well, but not too tight, otherwise you won’t be comfortable, and it will get a lot of creases whenever you move or sit down.

At the bottom of the trouser when you are standing straight, the back of the hem should be a quarter-of-an-inch above the part of your shoe where the heel meets the body of the shoe at the seam, and in the front of the trouser it should have a slight break.

It is personal preference for Cuffs or Without Cuffs at the hem. Cuffs usually appeal to the more mature customer, as it used to be the style of choice before the turn of the century. Without Cuffs has the effect of making you look taller, and with Cuffs can suit taller people; although most young professionals are opting for Without Cuffs regardless of their height, as it has a slicker, more streamlined look.

Perfect Jacket Sleeves

Sleeves that are too long will make you look sloppy, and sleeves that are too short will make you look like you’re wearing a jacket that used to fit you before your growth spurt at puberty. The classy look is for the sleeve of the jacket to always be half-an-inch to one inch shorter than the sleeve of your shirt, so that some of the shirt cuff is revealed.

English or American Cut? The Jacket Waist.

The American cut suit is now outdated. American cut is shaped like a box – from under your armpits it goes straight down and does not accentuate your shape at all. The English cut is now definitely the preferred style as it is tapered to come in at the waist then slightly out again at the hips. This gives a sharper, more streamlined appearance and moves away from the boxy, un-tapered look of the American cut suit.

The Perfect Fitting Suit

In the Perfect Fitting Suit, you should have enough flexibility to stretch and bend with relative ease while wearing the suit, but it should not look baggy either – it is important to strike the perfect balance between comfort and fit.

The following tests will help determine the comfort and fit:

• Walk around to ensure the trouser hem doesn’t get caught at the back of the shoe near your ankle. If it does, the trouser is too short. When the measurements are being taken, the perfect length is when the tape is taken from the side of your waist where you wear your trouser, down to just a quarter-of-an-inch above where your heel touches the ground. 
• Sit down in a chair and ensure that the trouser is not too tight. When the waist, hip and thigh measurements are being taken, the Design Consultant will always put a thumb or finger under the tape to give some leeway, whilst maintaining the tapered fit. 
• Your arms need to have free movement in the jacket. Bring your arms out straight in front of you. As long as you can lift them so they are parallel to the ground without feeling like you will rip the jacket, it is a good fit. When doing this, some tight feeling is to be expected in the jacket if it is well fitted. 
• Wear a well fitted shirt under the jacket and ensure that only half-an-inch to one inch of the shirt cuff is showing out of the jacket sleeve when your arms are by your side. The shirt cuff should come down to the base knuckle of your thumb.
• Button up the jacket and ensure that there are no obvious creases coming from the waist to the center where it is buttoned – otherwise this is an indication that the jacket is too tight around the waist. 
• If the shoulder pads are sticking out sharply, it means that the jacket is too tight for you. 

Having said the above, some people may prefer a tighter or looser fit. A tighter fit sacrifices comfort, but has an extremely tapered appearance for those who simply want a fashion suit to wear out to events. A looser fit may simply be what one is used to and a more fitted suit may just feel uncomfortable to one that is not accustomed to it. After all - perfection is all in your perception.

Whatever your preference, Sydney Custom Suits can help you with tailoring a perfect Finestitch & Co. suit to satisfy your personal taste.